To
get from Lombok to Flores we booked a boat trip. 4 days sailing with
as highlight seeing Komodo dragons.
The
wooden motor boat was a little less than 20 m long. It had an open
deck with a solid roof. After the first 2 hours we came across some
heavy rains. To protect us from the rain the crew closed the open
structure with tarps. It kept us dry but had one side effect. The
captain's view was blocked. This is no problem for an Indonesian
captain who just put his head out of the side window of the wheel
house ones in awhile. A bit funny looking but it seems to work till
the moment we almost hit an island... The captain was lost.
Under
the dark sky at an island he didn't recognize it was time for the
navigation instruments. Which was a wooden table with NO map of the
area and a compass which he looked at if he was waiting for the
moment it started to talk. In the age of I phones someone could show a
map and our location. Unfortunately the crew didn't seem to know how
to read a map. Turning around and crew members on each side in the
pouring rain made us find our way. The first night was a bit longer
than expected but we made it to save place to stay overnight. This
was a good start.
The
rest of the trip we were lucky with beautiful weather. From the water
is for sure the best way to enjoy the amazing views with all the
little island, deserted beaches, crystal clear water and beautiful
colored reefs.
The
third day we made it to Komodo island. An island famous for its
equally named inhabitants. The Komodo dragons. These giant
lizards are known to be the biggest and baddest of their kind. We
went for a hike through their territory guided by a park ranger.
They are for sure massive, up to 3 meters, but actually look a bit
lazy. According to the ranger Rinca island is where the action
happens. This smaller island where food is more scarce also inhabits
dragons. Several reports of attacked rangers and tourists exists.
The
next day we went to Rinca island for the real deal. It was now about
11 in the morning. Close to the hottest moment of the day, when cold
blooded animals are most active.
From
the boat to the ranger's office we already saw a few dragons. They
all seem to hang out around the rangers camp. This day we got
protection from three rangers. As we started our walk we understood
why. While watching the first dragon and taking photos two other
dragons sneaked behind us and a few smaller ones were approaching.
We were surrounded by the deadliest lizards in the world. The dragons
didn't look like they were planning to kill but just observing and
considering their chances. The rangers, armed with forked sticks,
directed us to move slowly. They needed their sticks to drift the
dragons apart so we could walk away. We were followed for another 20
meters till they gave up. Rinca is were the action happens.